all

accelerations are zero

temporal

accelerations are zero

Spatial

accelerations are zero

10^-5

10⁵

10^-1

H / d = 0.78; a / H ~0.75

H / d = 0.78; a / H ~7.5

H / d = 0.5; a / H ~0.8

waves

are not sinusoidal, amplitudes are large compared to wavelengths and depth, and

viscosity and surface tension are ignored

waves

are sinusoidal, amplitudes are small compared to wavelengths and depth, and

hydrostatic pressure is ignored

waves

are sinusoidal, amplitudes are small compared to wavelengths and depth, and

viscosity and surface tension are ignored

= temporal acceleration; = hydrostatic pressure

= hydrostatic pressure; gi = weight

= spatial acceleration; (gS) = friction

L/0.2 > d > L/20

L/10 > d > L/20

L/2 > d > L/20

amplitude

>> depth

amplitude

= depth

amplitude

<< depth